Dirty shiny perfectionists.

Warhammer 30k seems to be the new black around town, and after dipping my toes into the world of Heresy earlier this year I’ve been longing to take the full plunge with a legion of my own. In this post I’ll show you my first painted Emperor’s Children legion consuls and talk about some color theory in short.

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Third company elite.
I bought the Legion Champion and Master of Signals set primarily as I think the Champion model is one of the best single miniature sculpts Forgeworld has put out for their Heresy range so far. The pose is very dynamic and intimidating which, whether you play it as a Champion or Praetor, will make the model stand out from his unit. I magnetized a Mk IV jump pack so that I can field this character both in assault squads and in transports. I haven’t decided on what kind of backpack I want to give him yet, as I’m not a fan of the one with the aquila-vents that he came with, but that’s a later problem – for now he’ll take to the skies. I will do a full tactica on my intended army list and share some thoughts on how you can make the legion Champion work if you play the Maru Skara rite of war in a later post, as he is a complusory tax option for that specific Children-rite.

The Master of Signals is also a great model and I find it strange that people around here doesn’t seem to play with Masters at all – even though the local meta seems VERY shooty. The Master has the ability to call down D3 orbital strikes once per game, and after that he confers +1 BS to his attached unit as long as he doesn’t fire his boltpistol (ancient Chinese wisdom: he never will). I plan on fielding him with a full unit of Kakaphoni to make the most out of their sonic blasters – the bombardment is just icing on the cake.

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I basecoated the models using Vallejo Game Color Hexed Lichen (72.015), and highlighted the armour parts with a 2:1 mix of Vallejo Game Color Heavy Violet (72.142) and Vallejo Game Color Dead White (72.001) with my airbrush. After that I pin washed all the recesses using Armypainter Dark tone Ink/Wash. Hopefully I will be able to get the same recipe of purple on my other marines as I didn’t mix enough of the highlight color to save in a spare pot. The battle damage was achieved by chipping the armour using a spunge with grey color and some metallics. After that I painted dirt streaks of brown wash in a downward fashion around the joints and bolts of the armour plates. I know the Children are shiny little perfectionists, but this is war and the infamous Istvaan III dirt gets everywhere. Better get used to it.

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I gave both  the jump pack and some of the Master’s equipment a subtle OSL using and airbrush and after that it was all about picking out the details using a brush. This is a speedpaint project and I have no intention of wetblending space marine armor to insanity. I still think the end result is great and you can really cheat the eye by using some simple washing techniques, and zenithal highlights with an airbrush which speeds up the process a lot! I also added some decals to the shoulderpads and jump pack to make some of the flat areas more interesting. The top of the jump pack is covered in some sacred text or perhaps a love poem to Fulgrim’s honour.

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Theorizing your hobby.
Lasty I want to cover the color choice of the power sword wielded by the Champion. I’ve seen a lot of power weapons and other details painted in the ‘favourite color’ of the painter, but I’d like to argue that objects like these are perfect for pushing some color theory into your painting to improve the overall result. Rather than just chosing a color you like, you should try to pick a color that complements the main color or tone of your miniature. Colors either work in harmony or disharmony when put next to each other. This means that if the ‘wrong’ colors are used side by side the result will look messy, stressful or even sloppy – thus overthrowing the impression of a skilled paintjob. It is my firm opionion that miniature painting is all about harmony because harmony catches the eye and will make an army stand out next to others. So, in order to achieve harmony look at the color wheel and pick out the ‘complementary colors’ (sometimes called ‘contrast colors’) to your main or spot color. Complementary colors work in couples, triads, tetrads and so on but for this model I went for a two-color complement.

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My main color is somewhere between the blue purple/violet and red violet, and in order to find it’s complementary color I simply drew a straight line to the opposite side of the chart – ending up somewhere between the light yellow-green and light yellow. As the main color is dull and battledamaged I didn’t want to paint a too stark and glowing sword, as this would take the attention away from the body of the miniature and put focus on the weapon. Instead I chose to create a pale and subtle gradient on the blade, thus creating a contrast and a color complement to the purple armour. The focus points of the model is still the white helmet and the hand that pushes the pommel of the sword (this is where the movement and gaze of the model is), but the sword is what makes the model pop out by pushing that purple color and creating harmony. It’s as simple as that. Another trick is to use your bases to add extra complementary colors. I put some leaf foilage and tufts in a yellow-orange autumn tone to further contrast the main colors – this is known as a triad and will be covered in a later post.

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Here’s a 360 showcase of the Emperor’s Children consuls:

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